Scenes from public spaces, a while back

Behind my mask I forget about people watching. About what it’s like to sit lazily and listen. I remember people I don’t know:

The teacher who ran into three female students wearing big gold hoops on Valencia Street. They tell her about a kid who got in trouble in their class that day. “It’s racism playing out like we discussed in class, girls,” she says. “Black and Brown boys don’t get power anywhere else so when they can fight they’re going to fight,” she says. “Maybe we can change that,” she says, and they hug her goodbye, and then she calls them back so she can buy them chocolate croissants at Craftsman and Wolves. 

The guy on the 33 bus at 8:45 pm with a carefully packed rolling shopping bag, carefully dressed in a black sweatshirt, carefully eating something fried out of a plastic bag using his duffel bag as a table, carefully wiping the corners of his mouth. When he’s done eating, he pulls out what looked like a photocopy of a book page with a childish font at the top. He photocopies pages from library books during the day, rides the bus all night, until it ends at the terminal out by the VA.

The tall Black man with sunglasses, headphones, and a bucket hat on the 21 bus who asks a kid next to him to get up in case old people need to sit. The kid has been reading Harry Potter through glasses, a dream student, and gets up silently, nervously, wondering what he has done wrong. The man speaks in soft smooth tones to a brittle old lady in a purple sweater “How you doing - oh you know, keeping busy - ain’t that right.” He likes to wander North Beach, he tells me, walking 6 blocks up and 6 blocks back again. He was born and raised in San Francisco, and gets too homesick to leave for good. 

What Happened Next in San Francisco

1.

These are sentences from my notebook from the last 8 months. I’m putting them in their place, shuffling my cards so I can make a new hand.  Two-thirds of a year. I’m not old enough, yet, to count time too closely. But I moved here on purpose. I shifted my storyline with so much intention. I’m curious to find out what happened next.

2.

When the tide goes out at Ocean Beach, I learned in September, the Bay is emptying like a bathtub. We drank beers in the haze and the boys surfed. Don’t get used to this, everyone said. The city steamed in the day but by evening was like the cool side of the pillow. I loved California already for its peaches and plums, stayed up too late baking pluots into pie.

During the heat wave, I saw homeless San Francisco at the San Francisco Public Library, washing in the public restrooms and napping in the corners. I saw startup San Francisco at Uber, eating beet chips in the cafeteria and holding meetings in backlit spaceship chairs. Hayes Valley felt like a chic French village at night and the Mission felt like McAllen’s tough cousin, muscled with murals and garbage. The city smelled like eucalyptus and pot and urine, a city of dreams and dreams deferred or never even dreamt.

Right after I got hired, I pretended I was comfortable holding an old fashioned at a fancy restaurant under the highway in SoMa, asking the Mayor of Charlottesville for his unvarnished stories while picking at a cheese platter. 24th Street was better. Sage, drums, girls in feathered headdresses riding slowly down the street. Hair salons making an extra buck by painting faces. The small of pan de muerto in fluorescent-lit bakeshops where the grandma only speaks Spanish but the grandson prefers English. You’re welcome.

I came back to SF in January to skies that turned pink before rain. I came back to the sunrise cracking over the Transamerica tower, late to work. I came back to weekends golden and liquid. I bought a wetsuit and surfed, noticing when I breathed into the wall of water and stood up, and when I just said shit. I biked up and down Golden Gate and Folsom and Oak. I spoke in meetings. I walked in and out of bodegas and fish shops and Chinese grocery stores. I owned a view of San Francisco from a second-story window. The whole city spread below like a picnic blanket and the Salesforce Tower was a delicious rainbow fish.

“You can see why people stay out here,” my east coast parents said, after a day of riding bikes through the Presidio. We took a ferry across to Alameda like a late-night vaporetto ride in Venice. We ran through Golden Gate Park like it was our New Jersey loop. But we ate in the Outer Sunset and I told them how this city felt like nowhere else, like something I could only build myself.

Spring: the rain that makes everything green, exhilarated. The rain that highlights the homeless. Everyone with a place to go evaporates, and everyone in tents or bus stations is left on misty streets like a soggy paper bag. Spring evenings still felt soft like in high school. Days felt bright and raw and the surf was choppy and the coast south was jagged, new.

It’s baseball season now and I run after work. I run along the Embarcadero, I run past the stadium, I run into electric scooters on the sidewalks. I found a place by the Bay where the water is still and the path peters out like writing you’ve erased. I keep running. I haven’t been here long enough to own anything. From my house, you have to run up a hill in either direction to get a view. Then the sun drops into the Pacific and mist rolls across the mountains in Marin like you made it happen.